It is, arguably, the most famous restaurant in the world and perhaps one of the most significant and influential ever: the legendary 'el Bulli' in Catalonia has attained a near-mythic reputation for culinary wizardry. But what actually goes on behind the scenes? What is the daily reality of life in the world's greatest kitchen?

The Sorcerer's Apprentices tells first-hand the story of a young chef enrolled in the restaurant's legendary training course. It shows her struggle to adapt to the culture shock of el Bulli, how she and the other apprentices learn to push themselves and the limits of their culinary abilities, how they adjust to a style of cooking that is creative in the extreme and how they deal with the pressures of performing at the highest level night after night.

In past years stagiers have clashed with the rather severe demeanor of Oriol Castro, the restaurant's chef de cuisine; others have gone on to work permanently at the restaurant. One, inevitably, is sent home each year, unable to fit into the high-wire act that is the el Bulli kitchen.

Complicating things even more, the stagiers live together in shared apartments, so the events and emotions of their personal lives bleed more than usually into the professional. The Sorcerer's Apprentices tells these smaller, more human stories as well.

At its heart, The Sorcerer's Apprentices is a quest: it tells the tale of a handful of aspiring young men and women who submit themselves to a grueling challenge in order to be made better by it. It also offers an unprecedented, behind-the-scenes look at the most famous restaurant in the world through the lens of those who, ultimately, make it work.

el Bulli near the town of Roses, Catalonia, Spain is probably the most famous and successful restaurant in the world, having been voted so more than three times.  It’s “speciality” was molecular gastronomy and it was also famous for only being open for six months of the year.  In 2011 its founder and chef, Ferran Adria, announced it would be closed as of July 2011, to reopen as a creativity centre in 2014.

The Sorcerer's Apprentices is a narrative of elBulli from the kitchen side of the Pass*. The intimate thoughts, frustrations, tedious and sometimes monotonous, boredom are well expressed in the book and as a reader you become caught up in the ''stagiéres''** boredom.  But one of the main points Lisa Abend makes in this fascinating behind the scenes account, referencing Antony Bourdain's Kitchen Confidential***, is that kitchens are not full of coke-fueled sex maniacs living celebrity lives but, in reality, little has changed since Escoffier's**** day.

It's all about complete organisation and dedication as the people behind the swing doors are hard working professionals with an inherent love of the art of cooking.  She asks the young chefs why??? Why do you put yourselves through this? What drives you? And most answer....''it’s because I love food'' and it’s that simple.

You have to have a passion and skill to rise to the echelons of fame and fortune at the top of the restaurant game.  It's not for the weak and it takes hard work, dedication, patience and above all perseverance, all which is well put across in the ''The Sorcerer’s Apprentices''.  It in no way glorifies the chefs, more or less doing the opposite, describing the almost military style of discipline dolled out every minute of the fourteen hour daily shifts the chefs endure.

Over all a well written and enjoyable book that describes accurately and in sympathetic manner the long arduous hours required to gain the knowledge leading to a professional career as a top chef in a 3 star Michelin restaurant.  The Sorcerer’s Apprentices will captivate the ardent foodie as well as the professional whilst lovers of Masterchef and aspiring chefs will definitely appreciate this insight into what it takes to perform at the very highest levels.

*The Pass: the area overseen by the head chef from where service of dishes is supervised and sent to the restaurant.

** stagiers: Young 'apprentices' being given the opportunity to work in great kitchens with great chefs, often unpaid.

*** Anthony Bourdain Kitchen Confidential: American celebrity chef and writer famous for dishing the dirt on restaurants in a warts and all biography.

**** Escoffier: One of the first ever celebrity chefs cooking for royalty and stars of his time. Disciplinarian with an amazing knowledge of food and presentation.  Still none of the chefs today would be without a copy of Escoffier.

Review by Garry Waite.  

(With thanks to my Chef David Jones for his comment and input)

Garry Waite is an international hotelier/restaurateur, consultant, writer and broadcaster, living in Spain for more than a quarter of a century. www.gwconsultespana.com