Summary
Sergi Ramis has produced a well written and easy to use guide to the Camino de Santiago via the Camino Frances. It was not written for the historian or somebody interested in the culture and art to be found along the way, albeit that these facts are not overlooked. It is a walkers guide with plenty of solid advice; a readable and practical guide to the route, written by somebody who has personally completed the Way of St James, who clearly wants to inspire others to share this fascinating experience along an ancient pilgrimage trail. Credit should also be given to the translation by Peter Barraclough who skillfully manages to provide a comprehensive translation from the Spanish version into easily read English.
What is good about the Guide?
-
Covers all the basics about the Camino de Santiago – Camino Frances.
-
Gives advice in a way that experienced and novice walkers can understand.
-
Divides the journey into easily manageable day stages and gives distance in both kms and time
-
Provides information of general interest, history and highlights.
-
A detailed list of hostals / albergues along the Camino.
-
Excellent colour photographs to inspire the pilgrim.
-
Manageable size and importantly, weight.
-
Competitively priced.
The Detail
Many of us have dreamed about being able to go on a cross country hike for a few days, covering at least 20kms a day. Sergi Ramis’ guide, “El Camino de Santiago”, offers tips, directions and advice on how to do just that along the ancient Pilgrimage Way of St. James to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain via The French Way or Camino Frances - which starts in the cobbled streets of Saint Jean Pied de Port, 8kms from France’s border with Spain.
The Way of St James as it is today
According to tradition the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela can be traced back at least to the 12th century, when it was recorded in the Codex Calixtinus.
The Camino de Santiago is currently reliving its “golden age” that commenced over 1,000 years ago and these days over 100,000 people a year undertake the pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. The Camino de Santiago passes through small villages, whose names you will never have heard of before, to larger cities, like Burgos, Pamplona and Leon, where the traveller has the opportunity to visit some of the most impressive cathedrals in Spain.
“An amazing journey”, says Sergi Ramis who says that pilgrims will probably discover as much about themselves as they will about the country that they are passing through. Not all people to be found along the Camino de Santiago are drawn by religious motivation. Many choose to walk, ride or cycle the Camino for reasons of sport, tourism or the thirst for a new experience. The pilgrimage may no longer need to be devotional, however, it can rapidly become an introspective journey.
Preparing for the Journey
This section of the book provides more detail about the route that you are going to follow and the distances that you intend (or hope!) to cover. The distance between St Jean Pied de Port and Santiago de Compostela is around 700kms and on foot, this is likely to take over four weeks. Many choose to start out from some intermediate point, such as Burgos or Leon, while a vast number cover the last 100km of the section in Galicia alone; the distance required to receive a Compostela (or 200Km if travelling by bike).
When should you travel? The summer months remain the most popular time of year, accounting for more than 60% of the total number of pilgrims. The pros and cons of choosing to join the masses at this time of year are clearly stated, as are the reasons for choosing other seasons, with winter only being for those “who are hardy, mentally and physically strong.”
Physical and Mental preparation.
This brief section is a reality check as to how to be fully prepared to take on the achievable task of walking the Camino de Santiago and it also offers some useful insights into the possible challenges that you should expect to face.
Gear and looking after yourself on the Camino de Santiago.
Practical advice on what to carry, how to cope with walking long distances over many days, etiquette whilst travelling along the Camino de Santiago and personal safety.
The Pilgrimage by Bike
This chapter explains that to travel the Camino de Santiago by bicycle is easy and might almost be termed relaxing. Recommendations are made for the choice of bike, route, gear and how to make the most of the journey in 10 days, avoiding any potential mishaps.
History, birth and rebirth of the Camino de Santiago
The origins of Santiago de Compostela and of the ensuing pilgrimage are to be found in this section. Early in the ninth century a mysterious glow appeared on Mount Libradon, leading to the discovery of a marble coffin and nothing less than the resting place of Saint James the apostle.
A Miraculous Warrior: The Christian Kingdoms were in need of help to combat the drive north of the Muslim armies and a supernatural, invincible leader came to their aid; Saint James, mounted on a white horse, turned the tide in the Christians’ favour at the battle of Clavijo in 844. The King, in his gratitude, ordered that pilgrimage should be made to the shrine of Saint James in Santiago de Compostela.
European Highways: Over the four centuries that followed, the routes to the shrine became European highways for the passage of people, goods, languages and cultures. The loss of Jerusalem to the Muslims helped fuel the flow of pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela and towns located on the principal paths grew large and prosperous.
World Heritage: The wars that shook Europe from the sixteenth century and the subsequent disappearance of the relics of the apostle caused the Camino de Santiago to fall largely into disuse. When the relics of St James were rediscovered in 1879 there was a modest rebirth, but it was only towards the end of the last century that a genuine rebirth was witnessed. In 1993, UNESCO entered the Camino de Santiago on the World Heritage list.
Camino de Santiago in 30 stages
The Camino de Santiago at a glance, with a map showing the Camino Frances as it winds its way across Spain, precedes a 30 stage guide to the Camino itself; it is useful as a reference to the traveller and also to identify the principle towns and highlights along the route.
No more than 30km every day. None of the 30 stages exceed 30km in one day and some are shorter to allow time to visit villages, churches and bridges, to take refreshment in a bar or have a picnic in a meadow. This guide distances itself from the walkers who wish to boast about having walked in excess of 40km.
Measuring distance: The usual manner of measuring distance along the Camino de Santiago is in kilometres. This guide includes this form of measurement, however, interestingly, adds the measurement of distances in terms of hours and minutes. As everyone knows, these results may vary depending upon the fitness and strength of the individual, but bearing in mind the varying terrain, it is nevertheless very useful to be given an approximate indication of distances in the length of time that it takes to walk it.
Highlights: El Camino de Santiago guide includes information regarding the architecture, history, scenery and culture that the traveller will encounter or, should look out for, along The Way. An abundance of full colour photographs compliment the description and motivate the traveller to continue along their pilgrimage.
On to Finisterre
This is a 4 stage guide of the ongoing journey from Santiago de Compostela that some of the hardiest pilgrims choose to complete; the additional four days of walking before reaching Cape Finisterre, the legendary end of the world for the Romans.
List of Hostals / Albergues
A stage by stage list of hostels (known locally as albergues) to be found along the Camino de Santiago with information regarding the numbers of beds, addresses, phone numbers, prices and webpages where available.
Index of Place names
A useful index identifying references to places visited along The Way of St James.
Review by Phil Robinson. Not wanting to leave the “living experience” until retirement, Phil Robinson and his wife (both in their early thirties) bought a Motorcaravan and for 15 months they toured Spain where the Pilgrimage to Santiago “seed” was planted. Another 15 years passed before the opportunity arose for Phil to walk the entire North Route from Hendaya, France to Santiago de Compostela in 40 days and 40 nights.